Roof Turbine Repair Kings provides roof turbine repair, whirlybird vent replacement, and attic ventilator leak repair services in the Franklin, TN area for both residential and commercial properties. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Roof turbine repair in Franklin, TN costs anywhere from $140 to $430 on average for one turbine on a shingle roof that needs a new head, bearing work, or resealing at the base. The price depends on the number of turbines, roof height and pitch, the roofing material, and whether the flashing or decking around the vent needs repair.
Yes, we repair roof turbines on houses, garages, apartment buildings, warehouses, and other commercial properties. Let us know how many turbines are on the roof.
Yes, we cover the Franklin, TN area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
Worn, dry, or rusted bearings are the usual cause, followed by nests or debris inside the head and bent fins that throw it off balance. We check which it is and whether the head can be freed or needs replacing.
Yes, we repair it when the base and flashing are sound and the fault is loose screws, debris, or a crooked head. Badly rusted heads, bent fins, and failed bearings on older units are usually better replaced.
Yes, we can quiet most noisy turbines. Squealing usually means worn or dry bearings, rattling means loose screws, flashing or fins, and grinding means bearing wear or something caught inside.
Yes, we find where the water gets in and fix it. Most turbine leaks come from loose flashing, dried-out sealant, a head that stopped spinning, or a crooked unit. Let us know where the stain shows up.
Yes, if the base is solid. Heads fit bases of the same size and model, usually 12 or 14 inch, so we confirm the brand and size before ordering.
Yes, we can put it back on or replace it. The head slips onto the base and is held with screws, so we check the base and flashing first. Tell us whether rain has come in through the open hole.
We typically schedule turbine repairs as soon as the weather allows, and active leaks go first. Weekend visits are available in many areas, and we confirm the day when you contact us.
We need the address, the number of turbines, what you're seeing or hearing, and the roof type. Photos of the turbine and any ceiling stains help us price it.
No, not for most repairs, as long as we can reach the roof. For a leak, we'll want into the attic or the room below to trace where the water comes in.
Yes, but the landlord or property manager needs to approve the work first, since it's on the roof. We can talk to them directly about access and pricing.
No, not usually for a like-for-like repair, but rules vary. Some HOAs restrict turbines visible from the street, so we suggest checking before you change the size, color, or vent type.
Yes, we give you the price before we start. If we find rotted decking or damaged shingles on the roof, we agree on the extra cost with you first.
Yes, it can, if your policy covers wind or hail and the repair costs more than your deductible. Wear and rust usually aren't covered, and your insurer decides. We can provide photos and an invoice for the claim.
Most single turbine repairs and head swaps take one to two hours. Fixing flashing, replacing a base, or patching decking on a steep or tile roof takes longer.
No, not usually. Many turbines have sealed, permanently lubricated bearings, but some designs do call for oil, so we only lubricate when the manufacturer allows it.
Most roof turbines last about 10 to 25 years, depending on the metal, the bearings, and the weather. Galvanized units in salty coastal air tend to rust out first.
Worn bearings are a common failure. We also see fins bent by hail, dried-out sealant at the base, flashing loosened by wind, and galvanized units rusting once the coating wears off.
Yes, a wobble usually comes from bent fins, worn bearings, or a head knocked out of line. We can often true a head that's been knocked crooked, but badly bent fins mean a new head.
Yes, we can clear light rust and debris from the bearings, but a head that has rusted solid gets replaced. We check the base for rust too.
Too little intake air is the most common reason. Air the turbine pulls out has to be replaced through the soffit vents, so we check for soffits blocked by insulation or paint and for a ridge vent sharing the attic.
Usually from too little soffit intake, which lets exhaust vents pull rain and snow inside, or from a head that has stopped spinning. We check the soffits, the bearings, and the flashing.
No, in most cases leave it open. Attic vents help keep moisture down and ice dams away in winter, though heavy snow areas sometimes use a snow shield.
Yes, if you're comfortable on a roof, but falls are the real risk and a bad seal causes leaks. Check your roofing warranty first, since DIY work may void it.
Yes, but we usually replace the head, since bent fins throw it off balance.
Yes, we replace hail-dented heads and check the base and flashing for damage. Take photos before anything is moved if you plan to file a claim.
Yes, we reset it so the spinning head sits level instead of tilting with the roof.
Yes, we repair and replace turbines on tile roofs. We lift and reset the tiles around the base and use a tile-roof turbine with a taller neck when needed.
Yes, we repair turbines on metal roofs. The base has to be sealed to the panels following the manufacturer's instructions, so tell us the panel type.
Yes, we work on steep and two-story roofs with fall protection. Height and pitch add time and safety gear, which can raise the price.
Yes, it can be, but a stain near a turbine isn't always from the turbine. We check the flashing, nearby shingles, and the attic for other leaks before replacing anything.
Yes, but less. A stopped turbine works like a plain box vent without the pull from the wind, and a seized head can start to leak.
Yes, we clear nests and debris from the turbine and add screening where the opening needs it. Animals living in the attic may also need a wildlife removal company.
Yes, we can swap it for an aluminum or stainless steel turbine. Salt air eats through galvanized steel and cheap bearings much faster.
Yes, put a bucket or tarp under the drip in the attic or room below and keep electronics away. Don't climb onto the roof to cover it.
No, we wait for a dry roof and calm wind.
We use replacement heads or full turbines in aluminum, galvanized, or stainless steel, plus metal flashing, sheet-metal screws, roofing nails, and roofing sealant. Flashing goes under the shingles above the vent.
Yes, as a quick fix, but WD-40 is more a cleaner than a lasting lubricant, so the squeak usually comes back. If it does, we'd check the bearings.
No, only the ones that are failing, unless they're all the same age and wearing out. Replacing several on one visit usually costs less per turbine.
Yes, on most gable roofs with enough ridge length. We remove the turbines, patch the holes, and install the ridge vent, since turbines and ridge vents shouldn't run together on one attic.
Yes, we can remove it, deck over the opening, and shingle it in. Your attic still needs enough exhaust, so we'll tell you if removing it leaves the attic short.
Yes, removing and disposing of the old turbine and debris is usually part of the job.
Once a year and after major storms is enough. Look for a head that's stopped spinning, a new noise, rust, or stains on the attic decking.
